Recent content by kyler

I only have a soldering iron, no hot air. I'm using around 400 degrees, nothing will melt otherwise. Definitely cheaper to buy one u10 than another Wii and a hot air gun...

Does anybody have a spare u9 or u10 they'd be willing to sell? I just destroyed 2 more trying to get them off my second Wii... The prongs break off or the chip itself literally melts before I can get it off the board. I don't know if its the user or the tools, but I literally spent close to 45...

Got a new soldering iron + tips. Who knew that there could be such a quality difference in pointy things that get really hot on the end... I redid all the solder joints, got it all going again. The u9/ u10 input pin now gets 3.3v, but the output has stabilized at around 1.6. so the u9 I'm...

On the u10, the pad that's connected to the pin on the back sits at around 2v, though it ups to about 3 sometimes and then the screen flickers black. The other pin sits at a very low voltage, around .1 or .2.

Nothing has 3v on it. The screen did some flickering black while I was testing the voltage though. Unfortunately, I destroyed the original u10, so this is u9. Onward to wii the second. This time i won't destroy the MX chip. Though step 1 is actually better solder tips. i might as well be...

Honestly, I need to invest in some solder tips that don't melt away to nothing within a single soldering session... There's more or less nothing left of the last one I've got, but I wanted to get these joints connected to check signs of life. It's all temporary connections for now anyway. I have...

Well, no signal, but signs of life? Everything is showing the right voltages, the CPU gets warm, as if it's turning on. The u10 shows connection, but not 3.3v, closer to 2v. The composite cable is making connection - I know it looks a little odd but it's fine - and it's grounded. But no signal.

Ah, yep, around 35ohms. Thanks for the fast reply! Im going to reconnect it to the PMS - took it off for one last good sanding - and we'll see what happens.

Hey so I'm actually a giant idiot and had something about my initial set up for the screen wrong - when I put it all back together to take pictures for the seller to discuss sending it back, it just... Worked? So I tried 5v from the Pms soldered to the 12v in on the driver and Welp. It works...

Thanks everyone for your help! I did a bit of digging, and it seems like this board can just run off 5v, like was suggested. I had it all set up and it should have been working, but the voltage was really unstable and far too low at the pins for the screen. So I tried just setting it up with...

This is the board. I'm 90 percent sure the chip just above the power in in this picture is a buck converter, knocking the 12v down to what is probably 5v. Looking though some of the documentation I could find, it seems like the screen itself runs off no more than 3v. But, I'm not entirely sure...

Well that would make things a lot easier. Uhm. How?

I've been reading a lot of stuff on the site and lurking around a lot of the other worklogs of complete noobs like me while collecting parts and tweaking my design. But I've actually done some work on some things and I like feedback so, In the words of our favourite plumber, here we go... BOM...

Hey you asked the exact question i was trying to find the answer for yesterday! What are the odds. One more dimension though - thickness at thickest part?