Recent content by JacksonS

Hey, your pinout mapping is correct. And yes, EN should be connected to 3.3V. It looks like you may not have programmed the microcontroller initially. Before you can use the homebrew app, you’ll need to program the board using a PICkit 3. It connects to the board via the 6-pin header to the...

I thought I'd share a project I've been working on this semester for school (it's pretty cool): This is basically a partial NES emulator that can play music but not generate graphics. It's implemented entirely in SystemVerilog for the Nexys 4 DDR board, but it doesn't use too many resources...

Hi everyone, Summer has just about come to an end and I'm finally able to release the project that took up most of my time. As the name suggests, this project intends to fully replace the Wii's Bluetooth module and add lots of new controller options some people may find useful. Firstly, all...

If that's the same one I used it also heats up immensely as long as it's powered. Samsung FIT is good though.

I can't tell you exactly what to do but I know that there are multiple 3.3V rails on that Wii Remote and you will probably need to power them all individually since the regulator has been removed. You may have to compare this board with a working Wii Remote of the same type to figure out where...

@Aurelio I think you are right, that is almost the same sensor found in the Motion Plus accessory. The pressure-sensitivity may be in a nearby passive component rather than the gyro sensor. Or the gyro sensor sensor has a short in it and pressure somehow relieves it. Either way, I think...

Can you take a clearer picture? It's hard to tell what that component might be since most Wii Remotes are different.

The original Wiimote uses shorting to a common node rather than GND to detect button presses which seems to be the source of the problem. I've had issues in the past connecting Wiimote button inputs to other controller inputs but I haven't looked into a solution beyond using bus switches. You...

The charging IC on a Gamepad is a TPS65070 with a maximum draw of 2A on the battery input. Given that and how long the battery usually lasts, I think 1C is more than enough for the 3600 mAh battery and probably the original battery too.

Unfortunately no. Doing that requires extra hardware on any Wii Remote.

The etched buttons are especially awesome. Even 3rd party replacement shells don't offer that. Nice job!

Sounds like maybe one of the MCLR/VDD/VSS pins are not connected. I would touch up the pins with a soldering iron and flux. You should be able to see on the side of the IC if the pins make a good connection with the board.

Try powering it externally. Powering from the PICkit almost never works for me, especially when it's powering another chip alongside the PIC.

The original idea OP posted looks interesting. There's plenty of information already available about the Joy-Con design, so making a custom PCB wouldn't be too hard. The crucial parts are the BCM20734 Bluetooth chip, charging IC, EEPROM, and IMU. Those are all probably pretty easy to deal with...

IR camera emulation uses the right joystick to control the pointer. Classic Controller already uses the right joystick but Nunchuk does not - that is why the pointer only works in Nunchuk mode.