Recent content by Aaron Miller

I didn't really have the best tools or a lot of knowledge when I was making this, so I kind of ruined it with pulled pads, busted boards, etc. I've got more experience now, as well as much better tools, so I might go back to it some day, but for now I've moved on to other projects. I'm glad you...

I was looking at the USB-C PD board in the store, the USB-C PD DEEP DIVE on Gman's blog, and the datasheet for the stusb4500 chip, in order to learn more about how power delivery negotiation and other related concepts work. In doing so, I have been able to figure out the purpose of a lot of the...

For some reason, when I slice the back part in PrusaSlicer, it fills in part of the fan vent. Any idea why that is or how I could fix it? It happens regardless of if I slice for PLA or PETG, the infill density, layer thickness, or any other settings I've thought to change.

I did a bit of searching, and it looks like you might actually be able to get the LG GM73V1892AH16L and Toshiba TC59R1809HK from class-ic.com. I wasn’t able to get a quote, though, since it requires a business (non-gmail.com) email address. They only have 12 of the Toshiba chips, but they have...

I've got a Rev 6 I can trade.

At first, I was using one of these to power the screen: It wasn’t until the screen started flickering that I started using solder wires onto stuff and using breadboards and whatnot. However, it’s working now, so provided it continues to work and I’m able to do the 5V modification, I guess I...

I don’t have a 12V power supply, though I have a variable DC power supply coming in the mail, so I connected it to the regulated 12V on the Wii, and it is working perfectly! Thanks! However, I’m confused. The guide on how to modify the screen to run on 5V said to first try it with a lower...

I got my BitBuilt order a couple days ago. I connected an untrimmed Wii to the screen and it worked just fine. All of a sudden, it is now just flickering about once every second. I thought that the 9V battery I was using was dead, but replacing it with a different battery that measured 8.2V did...

From the look of it, this wouldn’t fit in an Original Prusa Mini. Is that the case, or is there some way that I could make it work? I haven’t actually bought a 3D printer yet, but that is the one I’m thinking about going with. If it won’t fit, is there a different printer you would recommend using?

My Wii should be coming in the mail on Monday, I’m totally going to try this out! :D

So, my other PowerBoost came, which I then proceeded to short out as I connected the battery. The solder I was holding slipped and power and ground got connected. However, a different chip was busted this time, so I decided to remove the chip that was broken on the first PowerBoost and replace...

If your only reason for making your own is because of the cost of the G-Boy, then you should probably know that if you are going to be making your own that isn’t from a kit, it probably won’t be a whole lot cheaper than the G-Boy. The G-Boy might seem expensive, but it is actually a pretty good...

Alright, why not? It’s not like I can make it work any less than it already does, right?

I’ve already ordered another PowerBoost, so I’ll just stick with that. Thanks, though. At this point, I’m not sure if I trust my soldering skills enough to try and replace that chip.

Alright, so... I done borked. :facepalm: A bunch of the stuff I had ordered from Amazon came yesterday. I had a virtual graduation party over Zoom with my family and friends recently, and a bunch of people sent me some gifts, including many Amazon gift cards, which I put to good use. I...