Recent content by Stitches

I think the Eyoyo was the last such screen in existence. There are still some photographer grade screens that cost several hundred dollars each that accept YPbPr, but afaik there are no simple screens like the old Eyoyos or L7009s with that capability anymore. YPbPr is a dead format now and no...

Fusion360 is the best free program available. There's a shitton of official resources for it, and more youtube tutorials than you can shake a stick at. AutoDesk even have a step by step series on learning how the various tools work and how to adhere to a proper workflow for ideal results. It can...

CM1/CM2 and DA7/DA9 The CM and DA components are there to protect the CPU from static discharge. They are not required for operation and can be removed without issue. You lose the static shock protection by removing them, but that's not a problem unless you want to have an externally accessible...

The CM filters? That's a first, but it kinda makes sense.

Nice! Did you identify what the problem was, or did a fairy somewhere wave her wand and it just started working?

Sadly, the Eyoyo screens no longer have YPbPr compatibility. They're no longer worth buying over simpler models like the one sold by 4layertech

That's usually indicative of a USB wiring issue. The wire length you have there should be fine, and your twist looks alright, so my next question would be whether you have confirmed that you have D+ and D- wired to the correct pads?

So is it getting to the no USB detected screen despite the PD-3?

RVLoader and Priiloader can both try to force 480p output, but certain games will just refuse

There is no step by step guide, aside from the old G-Boy Kit assembly manual. You can use it as a basic idea of the process and extrapolate from there

I'm sure it took a heap of time, but the security of those looms will keep that rig running smoothly through any and all bumps and tumbles

Damn that's some neat work

Probably unrelated, but you've doubled up on the 1.8v line. You have the LDO on the board still and you're supplying 1.8v from the PMS-2. This can cause instability, so I'd remove that 1.8v wire. You could also run a second ground wire between the Wii and the PMS. Your wires look like 24AWG...

My mistake, thankee

You don't need IL or IR if you're using i2s digital audio, but you do need SCL and SDA wired up for RVLoader to detect the U-AMP. Daisy chaining off SCW and SDW on the PMS works fine